It is very rough schist rock and makes for fun, crimpy climbing. It’s got something for everyone, with many problems at an easier level.
Access
Although there is bouldering along the length of the glen, the main boulders are up beside the dam at the head of the glen. A single-track road exits Comrie at the Deil’s Cauldron Restaurant and terminates at a parking spot shared with those wishing to walk up Beinn na Coinnich (Ben Chonzie) at Invergeldy Farm. Please remember to be considerate when parking in this area. The boulders are around a 30-minute walk up a private tarmaced road and well worth the effort. Walk up to the dam and on either side of the dam are two rocky hills (Creag Iochdair and Creag nan Eun) both of which give bouldering areas.
Grades
This is a great place for introducing young chnildren to bouldering containing some mini boulders with excellent lines for even the tiniest of climbers. There are nearly 180 problems with grades ranging from VB to V9 (or 3 to 7c for those who speak only in french). And there are some excelent test-piece problems.
What to be aware of:
- Sitting at 300m means its best to vist on a good day, but its a year-round venue.
- There are awkward landings in some areas.
- Bouldering pads are recommended.
- Dogs should be under close control at all times as there are sheep grazing in the area.
- Bracken can obscure the base of some boulders in summer/autumn.
- Although there is often a beeze to keep the midge at bay, on windless days in summer they can be annoying.
For more information and topos check out:
The Bouldering Guide to Strathearn by Kevin Howett
Also includes bouldering at Craig More (Bennybeg), The Samson Stone, The Tarken Stone and the Derry Stone; as well as several more venues in Glen Lednock.